Not far from the Patriarchs opened the restaurant "As is". And although this is not a name restaurant, the main thing that is worth going here is the food of the chef Sergey Berezutsky, who participated in the Omnivore gastronomic festival this year. In the past, Sergey worked at Grand Cru, and took up the position of chef “As is” almost immediately after returning from a three-month internship at Chicago's Alinea restaurant, which has three Michelin stars.
The owners of "As Is" - an intelligent couple Alexander Gulko and Daria Sachs. For both, this is the first experience in the restaurant business. Most often, the owners themselves meet guests or are in one of the halls of the restaurant. Alexander exchanged investment advice for an almost round-the-clock work in his own restaurant, Daria was an interior designer (the design of the restaurant is precisely on her conscience).
The views on the kitchen of the owners and the cook, Sergei Berezutsky, according to both sides, coincide. The first is the promotion of creativity: experiments with a combination of products based on modern and traditional culinary techniques (mainly French). The second is the use of local products. On the menu: Kamchatka sockeye salmon, muksun, kvass, Baltic smelt and so on. The third is a personal approach in everything, starting with the presence of the owners in the hall and ending with the chef, who personally collects dessert for guests at their table.
Sergei is a principled supporter of Russian products: sterlet instead of sea bass, deer from the Yamal region, birch sap (in season) and so on. The restaurant team itself finds small suppliers in Russia. Using local products allows you to lower prices in order to ultimately achieve the goal - "no meal in" As is "should cost more than 1,000 rubles." “Almost everyone can buy the most expensive meat and cook it well, but working with local products of difficult quality and making something impressive from them, and for a reasonable price, is a challenge,” Berezutsky explains.
Those interested in gastronomy in general and the nascent phenomenon of Russian cuisine in particular, all this, of course, is at hand. The menu thus appears: muksun stroganina with cranberry sauce (290 rubles), Kamchatka sockeye salmon marinated in yuzu juice, seaweed biscuit (330 rubles), salad with Baltic smelt, young potatoes and kvass sauce (420 rubles), sterlet stewed in birch sap, with beetroot puree and vodka candy (580 rubles) and a dozen more really interesting dishes. Sergey is also not indifferent to giblets, and therefore the menu contains buckwheat with chicken giblets and smoked suluguni sauce (450 rubles), veal kidneys with mashed celery root (360 rubles) and cannelloni with veal cheek stew with tomato sauce (440 rubles) . Breakfast will be available soon and the restaurant will start working from nine in the morning (now the doors open at noon). Then add dishes for companies and a tasting menu (with the same dishes, but smaller).
Nikolay Tarasov, part-time manager of the restaurant, is responsible for the bar in As-Is. Nikolai himself prepares tinctures and liquors, as if in continuation of the theme with local and home. There are a total of 14, but in practice you understand that not all of them are brought to mind, and in this area, “As Is”, you still need to try.
The owner of the restaurant "As is"
We came to the idea of the restaurant because we love to feed people and receive guests. We have held culinary festivals for many years. The occasion was my birthday. It was boring for us to make it traditional, with toasts, and all our friends love to cook and treat each other. We rented a restaurant (we were allowed to use the kitchen), invented a theme (it could be national cuisine, literature, music - whatever), gathered guests and cooked and ate everything together. We were about 60 people. People took this very seriously, thought out dishes for a long time. We counted points, invented diplomas. All our friends and relatives at home have these diplomas of different years hanging on their walls. There is also the main prize - a cook jacket, it goes to the winner every year.
We do not want to be called a restaurant, we like to think that we have a cafe. There is a share of coquetry in this, because, of course, we are a restaurant with high-level food. We want to occupy a niche that, in our opinion, is almost empty in Moscow — a truly gastronomic meal for not very big money in a warm and pleasant home atmosphere. We are generally against any simulators. We are for the essence, without any shell. Chefs were chosen thoroughly. Prior to Sergey, we interviewed 57 people. None of them came up to us. But with Sergey everything turned out perfectly and we understand very well which way we are moving together.
Duck leg with orange sauce, baked sweet potato and pumpkin with fir cones - 820 rublesDuck leg with orange sauce, baked sweet potato and pumpkin with fir cones - 820 rublesDuck leg with orange sauce, baked sweet potato and pumpkin with fir cones - 820 rublesDuck leg with orange sauce, baked sweet potato and pumpkin with fir cones - 820 rubles
"Letter from the chef" (mussels baked in an envelope) - 490 rubles
Halibut fillet with Adyghe cheese mousse, leek and cauliflower sauce - 740 rublesHalibut fillet with Adyghe cheese mousse, leek and cauliflower sauce - 740 rublesGarden "As is" (caramel mousse, ground from nuts and chocolate, berries and snow from champagne) - 450 rublesGarden "As is" (caramel mousse, ground from nuts and chocolate, berries and snow from champagne) - 450 rubles
Homemade duck pate with red chips
wine and flavored bread
Veal buds with mashed celery root and sauce
fresh mustard and parsley
Kamchatka sockeye salmon marinated in yuzu juice,
with seaweed biscuit
Baked veal tongue with stewed potatoes
and pickled tomato sauce
Muksun Stroganina with Cranberry Sauce
"Letter from the Chef" (mussels baked in an envelope)180 rubles
Baked vegetables salad with cod liver
and beetroot sauce
Green salad with baked cottage cheese
crispy asparagus and apple
Salad with Baltic smelt, young potato
pork and kvass sauce
Pappardelle with rabbit, mushrooms, spinach
and truffle egg
Buckwheat in the manner of risotto with chicken giblets
and smoked suluguni sauce
Sterlet stewed in birch sap with mashed potatoes
from beets and candy from vodka
Kamchatka sockeye salmon with vegetables
Veal cheeks with Japanese beans and tomatoes
Baked goat fillet
and the scent of the forest
Baked duck leg with orange sauce -
mi sweet potato and pumpkin with fir cones
Cheese cake with yogurt sorbet and berries
Curd mousse with sorbet from birch sap
Garden "As is" (caramel mousse, ground
from nuts and chocolate, berries and snow from champagne)
Restaurant "As is"
Trekhprudny per., 11/13, p. 2
+7 (495) 699−53−13
Opening hours: from 12:00 to 23:00
Photos: Olya Eichenbaum